After a fairly gruelling 170 km drive that took nearly six hours from Guatemala City to Lake Atitlan through broken potholed roads twisting hairpins and speeding suicidal Chicken Buses we woke to a glorious view of the lake and Fuego volcano smoking gently across the water from our beautiful lakeside Airbnb. To cross the lake we jumped in one of the many small but fast boats and paid our £1 to visit San Juan village, famous for textiles. In the main square a huge 12m circular banner was on display from a recent kite festival, hand painted in gorgeous bright colours – locals lining up for photos. We bought avocados, limes and freshly cooked corn tortillas for 30p, and had lunch in the bustling square. We zipped over to the hippy village of San Marcos, the air heavy with the smell of joss sticks and unmistakable exotic tobaccos! After a tasty meal at a yoga hostel and a long chat with Megan, a New Zealander, volunteering at the hostel and Katie who was teaching the Mayan women to make beads, we returned to the peace of our own airbnb. The next day whilst exploring Tzununa at sunset we saw some welcoming lights high up on the mountainside, and climbed up to see if we could get some food. Out of breath at the top we were greeted by Johan, his wife and their stunning architecturally designed hotel. They are due to open next month but were cooking dinner and invited us to join them and poured large rum and cokes which revived us quickly!! They met on a Natural Building course, held locally but run by a Brit, and whom they hadn’t seen for 6 months – and then by chance he turned up 10 minutes after us and also joined us for dinner. We keep meeting such lovely warm and hospitable people.